We left Fes in a way that only Fes could have let us. After extending our stay at the hostel one day at a time for a week, we made a quick decision one afternoon that we would be leaving or the desert that night. Bags packed we headed for the bus station just outside the city. We avoided the dodgy taxis and started our barter with an ordinary looking one, hopefully this one wouldn’t have any near crashes on the way there. The drivers small talk lead to that we were heading to the desert and he knew a guy if we were interested, this same guy happened to be outside the bus station as we arrived. We were introduced but not interested. He insisted on helping us with the bus. Last minute travel in Ramadan should not be recommended as this is the nations holiday and people are visiting family and friends all over the country. We learnt this the hard way, the bus was full and now it was time to make a new plan.
Luckily for us, our new friend had been with us through the entirety of this lesson and was quick to point out that he could get us down to the desert with his tour company. A quick phone call and the negotiations began. Half an hour later with a marvellous deal shook on, negotiated by me of course, we hopped in a cab and were whizzed to another part of town to be greeted by a fat man with a very friendly smile who spoke no english. He and his taxi would drive us from Fes, at about 9pm, all through the night to arrive at the desert by sunrise. We paid the tour man half of the cost, and away we went, Hugo and I in our private taxi. “Take us to the Sahara”, Hugo instructed the driver as we left.
Waken by the rising sun, we found that the road we were on stretched on for miles, straight as an arrow, as far as our eyes could see ahead of us and behind, with nothing stretching out to our sides. We sat in awe, amazed by this unintended adventure that became such a personal experience by having a car to ourselves.
We arrived at our accommodation, situated near the start of the dunes, just after sunrise. The heat of this place is the most memorable, and with our camel ride after sunset, we hung out by the pool and chatted shit with the other travellers there.
Just before sunset we set out on our hour-long camel trip into the dunes led by the bare foot guide and his dog. Camels are lots of fun, for about the first twenty minutes, the other forty are excruciating hell. But you soon forget the pain and watch in awe as the dunes colours change so extensively as the sun sets and the shadows paint one of the most beautiful scenes I have ever witnessed.
Laying in the middle of the camp with the four other travellers, looking up to the sky i have never seen so many stars nor felt so relaxed and at peace, nothing else mattered and all worries just slipped away. Dinner was called and we feasted on one of the best tarjines from the trip and were treated to melon for dessert. We ate like kings that night.
A music jam session and the full moon finally made its appearance. If you get to spend a night in the desert, do your very best to plan it around a fun moon. That night, playing in the dunes, I have never had so much fun nor seen something so beautiful and peaceful. The moon lit the landscape in a way that only the moon could, silvery and not overpowering, letting the land play tricks on your eyes.
An early start the next morning and we were driven to a bus to head for Marrakesh. I still can’t believe how lucky we were to be there. Things just have a way of sorting themselves out if you just let them.
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